The thought of Iceland evokes familiar associations: Reykjavík the hip capital city, the Blue Lagoon, or maybe stars such as Björk and Sigur Rós. But this land of bubbling mud pools, boiling geysers, glaciers and waterfalls is a real adventure playground -  in winter even more so. Between September and April the darkness offers a magnificent natural spectacle: the Aurora Borealis. And when the waterfalls freeze into ice columns, rivers freeze and the snow drapes the imposing landscape with a soft winter blanket, the North Atlantic island appears even more beautiful, dreamy and magical. 

Anyone who has ever been to Iceland during the summer months will hardly recognize the North Atlantic island during the dark season. Even more fascinating, even rougher, even more beautiful. Not only are the days much shorter, but the weather changes even faster. So the sun shines for one hour, whereupon it starts to rain in huge amounts, the wind whips around your ears, a few hours later it snows and in the evening the sky clears up and you have a good chance to see the northern lights in the sky. That is pure Iceland. The North Atlantic Island measures about 103.000 km2 - about 11% of the island is covered by glaciers. Its location on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge makes Iceland a hot spot of volcanic and geothermal activity: During the last two centuries, 30 volcanoes erupted after the last Ice Age, and the natural hot water provides the majority of the population with environmentally friendly heating energy and invites to wellness bathing spread all over the island.

Important: Be sure to rent a good rental car with all-wheel drive - it is definitely worth it. The Ringstrasse is regularly cleared of snow, but I have experienced mirror-smooth roads on my own body, so it is a relief to drive a good vehicle with spikes, otherwise the most beautiful days of the year can quickly turn into a nightmare. If you arrive late in Iceland or have to leave early for Keflavik International Airport, a cozy accommodation like the Nupan Deluxe near the airport is recommended: nice hosts and very tasteful rooms. In winter you can drive around the ring road - the almost 1500km can be done in 10 days, a week is already very short, a snowstorm can lead to a road closure and make your planning difficult - as it did for me. Luckily, in winter you can usually find accommodation at short notice. What works out - rent a room for 2 - 3 days at the same place and make excursions from there. In the north I have found a great place to stay with Einishus Cottages - superbly situated between the second largest city of Iceland Akureyri, the whale capital Husavik and the charming Myvatn - the rugged beauty of the moon-like landscape with gurgling mud pots, bizarre lava formations, steaming fumaroles and crater gorges makes the area around Lake Myvatn the biggest jewel in the region. If you experience the fairytale landscape even in the most beautiful winter weather, it seems almost unreal and as if from another world - simply fantastic! 

If you enjoy wellness and relaxing, then Iceland and especially the north of Iceland is the best place for it. Be it in the newly built GeoSea in Husavik, where you can enjoy an unobstructed view of the sea in 40° C warm thermal water, or in Myvatn Nature Baths: Northern Iceland's answer to the Blue Lagoon is smaller and quieter, not (yet) so famous and cheaper. It's a heavenly feeling to sink into the milky blue, mineral rich water and enjoy the crater panorama. And not to forget the own hotpot in the cottage - a whirlpool on its own with a view to the starry sky and the dancing northern lights. 

A bigger longer stop during the circumnavigation of the island could be in the southeast of Iceland. There are a few attractive destinations here. Visit Jökursalon, spectacular, bright blue icebergs float on the glacier lagoon, look out for seals or take a boat trip. We also recommend a visit to a shimmering blue ice cave, which forms on the edge of the glacier between November and March and is stable enough to be safe to visit. If conditions permit, a winter hike to Svartifoss in Skaftafell National Park is recommended. The waterfall is flanked by black basalt columns and solidifies into an ice pillar in January or February. A bit to the west, around the unspeakable village of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, the church floor created by nature and the Fjaðrárgljúfur gorge are well worth a visit, not only since Justin Biber's music clip shoot.

On the way back towards Reykjavik, several wonders of nature entice you to make a short stop: In Vik, the deep black lava beach with its two rock needles, which have defied the waves in the roaring surf for thousands of years. A detour to the glacier Sólheimajökull should also not be missed, the glacier tongue (still) reaches to the valley floor and a few kilometres further on the waterfall Skogafoss thunders like a curtain on 25 metres wide a whole 60 metres into the depth - an impressive natural spectacle. 

Of course a circumnavigation of Iceland would not be complete without a visit to the famous geyser Strokkur. I chose the alpine chic style accommodation Breidablik Cabin - one hour away from Reykjavik and ideally situated on the route to the Golden Circle. From here, after a short drive, you will reach the geyser and bubbling mud pots. Not far away, the water of the impressive waterfall Gullfoss rushes down over two cascades into the depths. At the end of an eventful day, a visit to the Secret Lagoon thermal spa is a must, where you can regenerate your tired limbs wonderfully in the hot thermal water.